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Embroidery is obtained by working with embroidering threads on a pre-existing ground of tulle, net, velvet, ribbon, knitted or crocheted fabric, lace or woven fabric, or of felt or nonwovens, in order to produce an ornamental effect on that ground. The embroidery threads are usually of textiles, but the heading also includes those executed with other materials (for example, metal, glass or raffia). The ground fabric usually forms part of the completed embroidery, but in certain cases it is removed (e.g., chemically or by cutting) after being embroidered and only the design remains. Certain embroidery is not made with embroidery threads but with strips or braids.
Thus the manufacture starting with a pre-existing ground fabric distinguishes embroidery from lace, and lace should not be confused with embroidery from which the ground fabric has been eliminated after execution. Neither should embroidery be confused with woven fabrics bearing designs produced by broche threads during the weaving process (plumetis and other broche work). Features distinguishing embroidery from these other products will be found later in this Explanatory Note.
Embroidery may be hand or machine made. Hand-made embroidery is of comparatively small dimensions. Machine-made embroidery, on the other hand, is very often in long lengths.The embroidery classified here comprises mainly the following three groups : (Ⅰ) EMBROIDERY WITHOUT VISIBLE GROUND
This is embroidery in which the ground fabric has been eliminated (e.g., by a chemical process, by cutting out). Thus the material consists entirely of the embroidered designs.
Since it has no background certain machine embroidery of this type might be confused with lace of heading 58.04 but can, however, be distinguished by taking into account the following points : (A) Whereas lace is made up of a single continuous thread or by the interlacing of two or more continuous threads with the same functions, and generally has the same appearance on both sides, machine embroidery of this kind comprises two threads with different functions; one, the embroidery thread, the other a shuttle thread underneath the fabric, the latter usually finer than the former. Thus the right and wrong sides of the embroidery appear different, the right side showing a certain relief whereas the wrong side is flat. (B) The edges of cut out embroidery often show small ends of the ground fabric threads which have not been completely eliminated. (Ⅱ) EMBROIDERY WITH THE GROUND RETAINED AFTER EMBROIDERING
This is embroidery in which the embroidering thread does not usually cover the whole of the ground fabric, but appears in the form of patterns on the surface or around its edges. The stitches used are varied and include running stitch, chain-stitch, back or lock-stitch, herring-bone stitch, point de poste, seed-stitch, loop-stitch, buttonhole stitch. As a rule the entire design can only be seen on the right side of the fabric. Many varieties of embroidery have small holes or openwork produced by cutting, by boring the ground fabric with a stiletto or by withdrawing certain warp or weft threads (or both) from the ground fabric and then finishing or embellishing the fabrics with embroidery stitches. This adds lightness to the embroidery or may even constitute its principal attraction; examples are broderie anglaise and drawn thread work.
Materials which have been submitted only to the simple process of withdrawing the threads are excluded from this heading.
In certain kinds of embroidery the desired design is first outlined or filled in with a padding thread to give the embroidered design greater relief.
Some varieties of machine-made embroidery, in particular satin stitch embroidery and certain embroidered muslins, appear very similar to broche muslins and other broche fabrics (e.g., plumetis) classified in Chapters 50 to 55. They can be distinguished, however, by the following characteristics arising from their method of manufacture. In broche fabrics, since the designs are produced by broche threads introduced during the course of the weaving process, each item of a row of design is always between exactly the same weft threads or exactly the same warp threads of the ground fabric; in embroidered fabrics, on the contrary, the ground fabric is woven before the designs are produced on the surface. In order to obtain these designs, the ground fabric is stretched on an embroidery machine, so the tension and position of the fabric cannot be sufficiently perfect for the needles of the machine to insert all the corresponding parts of the embroidery exactly between the same weft or warp threads of the ground fabric. Moreover, the needles often pierce the threads of the ground fabric, which cannot happen in broche fabrics.
These distinguishing features of broche fabrics and embroidered fabrics can be seen on fraying up the edges of the design. (Ⅲ) APPLIQUE WORK
This consists of a ground of textile fabric or felt on which are sewn, by embroidery or ordinary stitches : (A) Beads, sequins or similar ornamental accessories; these accessories are generally made of glass, gelatin, metal or wood, and are sewn so as to produce a pattern or a scattered design on the ground fabric. (B) Ornamental motifs of textile or other materials. These motifs are usually a textile fabric (including lace), of a texture different from that of the ground fabric and cut in various patterns which are sewn to the ground fabric; in certain cases, the ground fabric is removed at the places covered by the applied motif. (C) Braid, chenille yarn or other trimmings, etc., in the form of a design on the ground fabric.
All varieties of embroidery described remain within this heading when in the following forms : (1) In the piece or in strips of various widths. These pieces or strips may bear a series of identical designs, whether or not intended for subsequent separation to be made up into finished articles (e.g., strips of embroidered labels for marking articles of apparel, or pieces embroidered at regular intervals intended to be cut up and made up into bibs). (2) In the form of motifs, i.e., individual pieces of embroidered design serving no other function than to be incorporated or appliqued as elements of embroidery in, for example, underwear or articles of apparel or furnishings. They may be cut to any shape, backed or otherwise assembled. They include badges, emblems, "flashes", initials, numbers, stars, national or sporting insignia, etc. The heading does not cover : (a) Embroidery on non-textile materials (for example, leather, wickerwork, plastics, cardboard). (b) Needle-worked tapestries (heading 58.05). (c) Sets consisting of woven fabric and yarn for making up into embroidered tablecloths or serviettes, or similar articles (heading 63.08). (d) Embroidery (other than motifs) made up within the meaning of Part (Ⅱ) of the General Explanatory Note to Section XI, whether or not in the form of finished articles ready for use. Also individual articles of embroidery, completely finished, ready for use as such, which are embroidered directly in their final shape without any further fabrication. This wide range of articles is classified as made up articles (e.g., Chapter 61, 62, 63 or 65) and includes, for example, handkerchiefs, bibs, cuffs, collars, bodices, dresses, tray-cloths, table-centres, mantlepiece covers, table-mats and curtains. (e) Embroidery with glass thread without visible ground (heading 70.19). Subheading Explanatory Note. Subheading 5810.10
This subheading does not include broderie anglaise.
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